Ola again,
I decided to post twice this evening because I have so much to share.
Yesterday while sitting under a tree outside the church where St. Dominique, was born and baptized, we were approached by this tall, red-headed Irish fellow. We had seen him where we had stayed the night before, but had not been introduced. Well we started talking and it turns out that he is a physics professor from the university of Scranton in Penn. WHich was very exciting for my friend because she is a physics major. Well, we sat and chatted for a while and before I knew it we were discussing why humans should be kind, as in where the ¨should¨ comes from, this led down the path to a very philosophical conversation. He walked with us for most of the rest of the day and we talked about literature, physics, love, what and why certain things are considered masculine or feminine. It was this amazing conversation, and the best part was it was not him lecturing us, it was us sharing information and thoughts both directions. It was a really powerful conversation, the stuff we talked about left my mind realing for most of the evening.
It is those moments, days, and hours that are making every step one of the most fulfilling experiences, I have ever had.
Night,
Amanda
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Almost to Burgos
Buenas Noches!
Well the last couple of days have once again proved to be full of wonderful and inspiring experiences. We have travelled from Azofra to Toentos, and I must confess are staying in a small town of which I don´t remember the name at this time. We are almost to Burgos, which is a pretty significant mark as far as distance is concerned for our journey.
Since I last wrote we have been staying with nuns and monks, and it has been an interesting endeavor. All have been very hospitable and welcoming.
In regards to my time with the nuns and the monks there has been something that has been going trough my mind quite often the last couple of days as I have been walking. The night that we stayed with the nuns in Vianna (the same night I played soccer) we were staying there along with the French people we have befriended and some Spainards. As we sat after dinner, my friend said something to me, she said that half way through dinner she had realized that as the nuns were commenting on my not being able to speak spainish, that she was the only person in the room with whom I could communicate. This was very true as she speaks Spainish and the language I speak was not useful at all in context of the situation.
The next day while walking I was reflecting on this and I have had a few thoughts. As I sat there at the table, and as I encounter people on a day to day bases, I am placed in the position of the outsider, I am the other. It is a vey humbling position I have come to see, for two reasons. One because I am American and I think that as a result I tend to have even when I try not to, subconciously, a perspective of the world that centers me and my native language at the center, as the privillaged positition. It is humbling secondly, because I am a pretty independent person and having to rely on someone else for as simple a task as communicating is a big thing. The thing though is that as much as it is humbling and as much as I am placed on the outside, I have come to realize that the people I am meeting along this road, have a way of making my positon as other, my being an outsider not something that separates, it is this odd inclusive outsiderness. As though I at times am standing on the outside of the house looking in the window, and then suddenly the door swings wide open and I am welcomed in. We all do not speak the same language or have the same reasons for walking, or even have the same backgrounds. We are separated by generations, cultures and nationalities, yet, we find ways to communicate, by being open, and listening.
So I find myself wondering if there was a way to take this attitude if you can call it that and envoke it in a greater more significant way, could things in the world change. I mean wonder if we were to all sit down at the next nuns table and discuss some of the tough deeper issues aside from where we are from and why we are walking, but if we talked about politics,and religion, and the state of the world, and if we despite all our barriers, really listened and tried to communicate, taking no privlliged position, maybe we could have a meaningful conversation, debate if you want to call it that, that would lead to a meaningful outcome. I wonder and continue to wonder, my mind wanders back to this thought as I walk, a doubt there is any straigh forward answer. That is one big thing I have learned so far, is that the road that appears to lead straight to the destination, carries with it many more curves and turns then one would ever imagine.
With Peace,
Amanda
Well the last couple of days have once again proved to be full of wonderful and inspiring experiences. We have travelled from Azofra to Toentos, and I must confess are staying in a small town of which I don´t remember the name at this time. We are almost to Burgos, which is a pretty significant mark as far as distance is concerned for our journey.
Since I last wrote we have been staying with nuns and monks, and it has been an interesting endeavor. All have been very hospitable and welcoming.
In regards to my time with the nuns and the monks there has been something that has been going trough my mind quite often the last couple of days as I have been walking. The night that we stayed with the nuns in Vianna (the same night I played soccer) we were staying there along with the French people we have befriended and some Spainards. As we sat after dinner, my friend said something to me, she said that half way through dinner she had realized that as the nuns were commenting on my not being able to speak spainish, that she was the only person in the room with whom I could communicate. This was very true as she speaks Spainish and the language I speak was not useful at all in context of the situation.
The next day while walking I was reflecting on this and I have had a few thoughts. As I sat there at the table, and as I encounter people on a day to day bases, I am placed in the position of the outsider, I am the other. It is a vey humbling position I have come to see, for two reasons. One because I am American and I think that as a result I tend to have even when I try not to, subconciously, a perspective of the world that centers me and my native language at the center, as the privillaged positition. It is humbling secondly, because I am a pretty independent person and having to rely on someone else for as simple a task as communicating is a big thing. The thing though is that as much as it is humbling and as much as I am placed on the outside, I have come to realize that the people I am meeting along this road, have a way of making my positon as other, my being an outsider not something that separates, it is this odd inclusive outsiderness. As though I at times am standing on the outside of the house looking in the window, and then suddenly the door swings wide open and I am welcomed in. We all do not speak the same language or have the same reasons for walking, or even have the same backgrounds. We are separated by generations, cultures and nationalities, yet, we find ways to communicate, by being open, and listening.
So I find myself wondering if there was a way to take this attitude if you can call it that and envoke it in a greater more significant way, could things in the world change. I mean wonder if we were to all sit down at the next nuns table and discuss some of the tough deeper issues aside from where we are from and why we are walking, but if we talked about politics,and religion, and the state of the world, and if we despite all our barriers, really listened and tried to communicate, taking no privlliged position, maybe we could have a meaningful conversation, debate if you want to call it that, that would lead to a meaningful outcome. I wonder and continue to wonder, my mind wanders back to this thought as I walk, a doubt there is any straigh forward answer. That is one big thing I have learned so far, is that the road that appears to lead straight to the destination, carries with it many more curves and turns then one would ever imagine.
With Peace,
Amanda
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Hi,
Since I last wrote I have travelled through many towns and had lots of great experiences. From Estella I went to to Los Arcos, from there to Viana then to Navarrette and now to Afroza.
Where to begin... Well grape vines are as numerous along the Spanish countryside as the product they yield is on the dinner table. Every dinner comes with aa bottle of wine, from the region that you are dining in. So far we have gone through one region and are into our second, we went through the Navarra region and now are in the Rojia region. As we were leaving Estella on our fifth day of walking we encountered an arduous if not long uphill climb, as we were walking we came upon the Bodega Irache, a winery that has been bottling world famous wine since 1891. Now I am sure you are saying what is the big deal about coming across a winery in Spain. The big deal though you see is that this winery had a free wine spicket for pelegrinos (pilgrims), free wine is sure to make any uphill climb a bit easier. Well, needless to say 9:00 am is much to early for wine so we did what any good pilgrims would do not wanting to offend anyone but not taking what was offered to us, we dumped our water bottles and filled them up with wine to drink with our lunch. The hill seemed a much smaller climb after that.
The next evening we had the opportunity to stay in a church, and be hosted by nuns it was a wonderful experience, as we were there with a group of French people the we have befriended. Before dinner my friend and I wnet outside to the town square and found some kids playing soccer, these kids could not have been much older then 8. My friend asked in Spanish if we could play, they had fun for a bit letting us be goalkeepers and shooting the ball at us . Then they wanted to play real soccer. My friend got picked first for one team then the kids went on picking players and then it came down to me. You know your soccer carrier in Spain is doomed when an eight-year old looks you over, measures you for height against him, and tells his mate that he doesn´t want you. Yeah, I got sized up by a kid and nobody wanted me on there team, especially when my friend told them I didn´t speak Spanish. In the end I got on a team, showed those eight year olds a thing or to about soccer, and we all had a great time.
Well I have plenty more to say but it will have to wait the clock is running out, maybe I will post again later. Hope this finds everyone well.
Amanda
Since I last wrote I have travelled through many towns and had lots of great experiences. From Estella I went to to Los Arcos, from there to Viana then to Navarrette and now to Afroza.
Where to begin... Well grape vines are as numerous along the Spanish countryside as the product they yield is on the dinner table. Every dinner comes with aa bottle of wine, from the region that you are dining in. So far we have gone through one region and are into our second, we went through the Navarra region and now are in the Rojia region. As we were leaving Estella on our fifth day of walking we encountered an arduous if not long uphill climb, as we were walking we came upon the Bodega Irache, a winery that has been bottling world famous wine since 1891. Now I am sure you are saying what is the big deal about coming across a winery in Spain. The big deal though you see is that this winery had a free wine spicket for pelegrinos (pilgrims), free wine is sure to make any uphill climb a bit easier. Well, needless to say 9:00 am is much to early for wine so we did what any good pilgrims would do not wanting to offend anyone but not taking what was offered to us, we dumped our water bottles and filled them up with wine to drink with our lunch. The hill seemed a much smaller climb after that.
The next evening we had the opportunity to stay in a church, and be hosted by nuns it was a wonderful experience, as we were there with a group of French people the we have befriended. Before dinner my friend and I wnet outside to the town square and found some kids playing soccer, these kids could not have been much older then 8. My friend asked in Spanish if we could play, they had fun for a bit letting us be goalkeepers and shooting the ball at us . Then they wanted to play real soccer. My friend got picked first for one team then the kids went on picking players and then it came down to me. You know your soccer carrier in Spain is doomed when an eight-year old looks you over, measures you for height against him, and tells his mate that he doesn´t want you. Yeah, I got sized up by a kid and nobody wanted me on there team, especially when my friend told them I didn´t speak Spanish. In the end I got on a team, showed those eight year olds a thing or to about soccer, and we all had a great time.
Well I have plenty more to say but it will have to wait the clock is running out, maybe I will post again later. Hope this finds everyone well.
Amanda
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
The Beauty of Spain
You know how there is that song, I think it is America the Beautiful, and it talks about purple mountains majesty, well America may have the purple mountain thing going on, but Spain has a beauty all its own. As I walk it is so beautiful to look out and see the hillsides covered with wheat a toasted yellow color, intermingled with poppies, that are this deep orange-red. Since I wrote last I have walked from Cizur Manor to Puenta la Renia and then today I ended in Estella. I think that growing up my whole life in the Pacific Northwest has made me prone to bringing the rain with me when I go sunny places :) . The last couple of days have been rainy, with today being one of the first with significant sun.
All the walking has begun to get tiring, but I am still enjoying my time. We have joined in the Spanish tradition of taking a siesta in the afternoons after we arrive at the refugio. The refugios have so far been very nice. Tonight was the first time we were in one with a kitchen so we made dinner. Just pasta and sauce.
Well I am pretty tired so not much else to say, but I will try to have something more interesting to write about next time.
Side Note: I know that my posts have had many spelling errors and typing mistakes, sorry if it makes it difficult to read, the Internet here is timed, so I am always typing in a hurry, and I tend to make quite a few mistakes.
Also, in case you were wondering I am not travelling alone, I am with a friend Kelly, so if I start referring to ¨we¨ that is why.
tired pilgrim,
Amanda
All the walking has begun to get tiring, but I am still enjoying my time. We have joined in the Spanish tradition of taking a siesta in the afternoons after we arrive at the refugio. The refugios have so far been very nice. Tonight was the first time we were in one with a kitchen so we made dinner. Just pasta and sauce.
Well I am pretty tired so not much else to say, but I will try to have something more interesting to write about next time.
Side Note: I know that my posts have had many spelling errors and typing mistakes, sorry if it makes it difficult to read, the Internet here is timed, so I am always typing in a hurry, and I tend to make quite a few mistakes.
Also, in case you were wondering I am not travelling alone, I am with a friend Kelly, so if I start referring to ¨we¨ that is why.
tired pilgrim,
Amanda
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Roncevalles-Cizur Manor
Good Evening,
Today ends the third day of walking. I walked from Roncesvalles to Zubri and thru to Laresona yesterday. Sleeping in Laresona and leaving at 6 am this morning. Today I walked through Pamploma and unfortunately was not able to participate in the running of the bulls (don´t worry mom!) because the running of the bulls is not until July 7th. The city was wonderful, the cathedral was this huge stone building that looks much like a fortress, which apparently has to do with the fact that when it was built in the 18th cent. it was designed to defend against enemies. I think I could live in Pamploma if I knew Spanish, it was a very lively, and relatively up to date city. As well the people there are so nice, always trying to help direct us along our way, and stopping us to ask where we are from and why we are walking the Camino.
The walking has been wonderful, although my feet are starting to show the results of walking 15 plus miles a day. I have quite a few blisters, but nothing that is causing me to much trouble. Everyday I am still enjoying the walking. It is relatively quite while you walk, occasionally coming across fellow pilgrims, greeting them and going on your way. There is quite a few pilgrims that I have befriended and have had the chance of having some very interesting conversations with. From politics, to sailing, to soccer, to philosophy, to what is most important in life. It has been a great experience so far. I have learned so much in so little time.
Everyday there are moments when the walking gets tiring, but every evening when I am sitting talking with fellow pilgrims I am reminded why I came to do this, and why this is worth the little bit of being tired. Everyday I find myself in aw of the fact that I am here walking to Santiago, and everyday I get excited, because I am a little bit closer.
When you pass people on the road it is tradition to say ¨Bueno Camino¨, so I say to you until next time, ¨Bueno Camino¨, have a good journey.
Amanda
Today ends the third day of walking. I walked from Roncesvalles to Zubri and thru to Laresona yesterday. Sleeping in Laresona and leaving at 6 am this morning. Today I walked through Pamploma and unfortunately was not able to participate in the running of the bulls (don´t worry mom!) because the running of the bulls is not until July 7th. The city was wonderful, the cathedral was this huge stone building that looks much like a fortress, which apparently has to do with the fact that when it was built in the 18th cent. it was designed to defend against enemies. I think I could live in Pamploma if I knew Spanish, it was a very lively, and relatively up to date city. As well the people there are so nice, always trying to help direct us along our way, and stopping us to ask where we are from and why we are walking the Camino.
The walking has been wonderful, although my feet are starting to show the results of walking 15 plus miles a day. I have quite a few blisters, but nothing that is causing me to much trouble. Everyday I am still enjoying the walking. It is relatively quite while you walk, occasionally coming across fellow pilgrims, greeting them and going on your way. There is quite a few pilgrims that I have befriended and have had the chance of having some very interesting conversations with. From politics, to sailing, to soccer, to philosophy, to what is most important in life. It has been a great experience so far. I have learned so much in so little time.
Everyday there are moments when the walking gets tiring, but every evening when I am sitting talking with fellow pilgrims I am reminded why I came to do this, and why this is worth the little bit of being tired. Everyday I find myself in aw of the fact that I am here walking to Santiago, and everyday I get excited, because I am a little bit closer.
When you pass people on the road it is tradition to say ¨Bueno Camino¨, so I say to you until next time, ¨Bueno Camino¨, have a good journey.
Amanda
Friday, June 13, 2008
Roncevalles
Ola,
Well, I am in Roncevalles after two planes and a cancelled train, one night in the Paris train station, I finally arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port last night. I began walking at 8:00 am and arrived at 3:00. I hiked 15 miles, I can't believe it. It was mostly up hill, and when I say mostly I mean mostly. It rained and there was mud up to my ankles, but it was still great. I am astounded I made it 15 miles. I feel like I can do the rest now, with 15 miles done. I keep having to remind myself it is not about the end it is about the journey. One step at a time (Thanks Greg!). So far I have met a lot of wonderful people, I met a guy from Lithuania and we conversed in Russian, a hedge fund manager from South Africa, a woman from London, a teacher from Holland and a bunch of other people from France and Germany. Everyone has been great about trying to communicate despite the language barriers. It has been fun to see how something that is not nationally associated can allow people to step beyond boundaries and be welcoming and willing to help people they don´t know. I am in complete aw that this is all really happening, I keep having to remind myself I am really in France and Spain and I really am on my way to walking 500 miles. Tonight I am staying at a monastery Roncevalles, it is beautiful, it is just as it was during medieval times. One of the things I have found most meaningful so far is that as I walk the path I am stepping on the places, I am staying, places that thousands of pilgrims have passed through before. This is my own journey and it is also that of the many as well. I don´t think it is possible to put into words what that feels like. Well I am off but until later, Peace.
Amanda
P.S. Thanks for all the comments, they are great to read after a long day of walking.
Well, I am in Roncevalles after two planes and a cancelled train, one night in the Paris train station, I finally arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port last night. I began walking at 8:00 am and arrived at 3:00. I hiked 15 miles, I can't believe it. It was mostly up hill, and when I say mostly I mean mostly. It rained and there was mud up to my ankles, but it was still great. I am astounded I made it 15 miles. I feel like I can do the rest now, with 15 miles done. I keep having to remind myself it is not about the end it is about the journey. One step at a time (Thanks Greg!). So far I have met a lot of wonderful people, I met a guy from Lithuania and we conversed in Russian, a hedge fund manager from South Africa, a woman from London, a teacher from Holland and a bunch of other people from France and Germany. Everyone has been great about trying to communicate despite the language barriers. It has been fun to see how something that is not nationally associated can allow people to step beyond boundaries and be welcoming and willing to help people they don´t know. I am in complete aw that this is all really happening, I keep having to remind myself I am really in France and Spain and I really am on my way to walking 500 miles. Tonight I am staying at a monastery Roncevalles, it is beautiful, it is just as it was during medieval times. One of the things I have found most meaningful so far is that as I walk the path I am stepping on the places, I am staying, places that thousands of pilgrims have passed through before. This is my own journey and it is also that of the many as well. I don´t think it is possible to put into words what that feels like. Well I am off but until later, Peace.
Amanda
P.S. Thanks for all the comments, they are great to read after a long day of walking.
Monday, June 9, 2008
As I set out...
Hi all,
I am 16 hours and 35 minutes away from boarding a plane to begin my adventure across Spain. For all who don't know, I am venturing off to spend 40 days walking 500 miles across Spain. The route that I will be walking is known as the Camino de Santiago, or Road to Santiago. It is a Medieval pilgrimage route that is dedicated to St. James. His relics are believed to be entombed in the cathedral of St. James in Santiago de Compostela.
There are many stories regarding the history of the road and the cathedral. A couple that I have come across most often in my research have been: that after James died his body was placed in a boat which floated over to the coast of Spain. Upon recognizing who he was, he was buried in the hills of Santiago. A shrine was resurrected for him, and as word spread people began to travel from a far to honor him and touch his relics, as there were healing properties associated to them. Another story that is attached to this one is that while the Spainiards were trying to push the Moors out of Spain, St. James rose up riding on a white horse and helped to defeat the Moors. In light of this the shrine that had been erected for him, was built into the magnificent cathedral that stands in Santiago today.
The route that I will be walking that will eventually bring me to the Cathedral of St. James, has been walked by fellow pilgrims for centuries. Medieval pilgrims walked it for a number of reasons. For some it was used as a route to export goods, for others during the time of indulgences in the Catholic church it was a method of earning forgiveness. At present individuals from around the World, with various backgrounds walk it for a variety of reasons. Some for religious purposes, others just for the experience and beauty of the walk.
In order to do the walk though and be able to take advantage of using what are called refugious, or hostels along the way, one is required to declare themselves a pilgrim. This is done by registering with the pilgrims association in Spain. Despite the various reasons that one chooses to walk the road, everyone is united through their position as a pilgrim.
Well, that is the general gist of the history and information about the road. If you want to learn more feel free to tour the sites I have posted on the blog, they are all very informative and interesting.
The last couple of days, as I have been finishing up with school and getting ready to leave, I have had to stop and really think for brief moments about the fact that I really am going to be getting on a plane to Spain. I am still at this moment amazed that it is really happening, that I am really getting to go. I suppose that is how these sorts of things work, you get so caught up in the planning and organizing, and worrying that it might not happen, that the moment it is in front of you, it seems amazing.
Well that is all for now, but if you feel like following me as I traverse Spain, feel free to check the blog. My hope, fingers-crossed is that I will be able to post every few days or so.
With excitement and trepidation,
Amanda
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
