Sunday, August 31, 2008

Back Home

Hi,

 Here is a link to a slide show put together by my friend that travelled with me. It is awsome check it out!
http://picasaweb.google.com/kkunowski/CaminoDeSantiago02?authkey=3pcL8PvP7RQ#






   Amanda 

Saturday, July 19, 2008

The end of the world

Ola Ola,

I am writing this from Finistera, where we arrived yesterday afternoon. We made it to Santiago three days ago, it was an amazing feeling to arrive there and stand in front of the cathedral. I couldn't´t believe I actually walked over 500 miles and arrived. We went to the pilgrims mass at noon and sat among hundreds of pilgrims many who we had at one point or another walked and talked with. The interior of the cathedral was magnificent, and at mass they swung the botafumerio, the (large incense burner), it was a really cool thing to see. There is so much of the experience that I can´t put into words.

As we walked to Finistera the final leg of our trip, I began thinking about a comment my aunt had made to me before I left. She asked me if I was going to find myself on this trip. I remarked that actually I was hoping to find a nice Spanish guy, (instead I found a nice German one, just kidding, Don´t worry dad.) In truth though, I don´t think you find yourself, because I don´t think there is a ¨you¨ out there somewhere else that is waiting to be discovered. I read a quote by Lord Cecil the other day and the quote went like this, ¨Solitude shows us what we should be; society shows us what we are.¨ Now I don´t entirely agree with this quote, but I think it argues a good point. As walking over 500 miles offers a lot of time for solitude, there is a certain amount of personal reflection that one is able to do. What I have come to realize is that it is not that society makes you into a person that is completely different from who you really are, and that when you are on trips or spending time away from society, that you become this more real person,I just think that with all the things to do in everyday life, all the work, and social stuff, it becomes easy to lose sight of what the real ¨you¨ wants, likes and needs. The real ¨you¨ if you can call it that is always there, always influencing your decisions, even those that are made more in the name of society then in the name of what you really want or need.

So now this is where you might be thinking that I, having made it to the ¨end of the world¨, have had this wonderful insight into how one might go about taking all the things realized about one´s self in times of solitude and integrating them back into life among society. Truth is I have not a clue to that answer.
Last night I sat at what, until Columbus discovered America, was thought to be the end of the world. I sat there and watched one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen, and awhile after the sun set I looked up and there was the light from the lighthouse shinning out into the abyss of the dark ocean.

Maybe that is the answer, a lighthouse standing at the end of the world.

This is my final post, we head back to the states tomorrow. It has been great to share this trip with all of you. I am very grateful for all the comments.

Check back in a week or so if you feel like it and I will try to have some pictures posted.

Peace,

Amanda

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Almost to Santiago

Hey,

Well we are two days away from arriving in Santiago. I find myself in a bit of disbelief when I say that. How close we are getting really hit home the other day when we passed the 100 kilometer post. I can´t believe we have travelled so far. The number of pilgrims has increased substantially in the last couple of days, in part because there is a rule on the Camino that in order to earn your compostela in Santiago, certificate of completing the pilgrimage, you must walk at least the last 100 kilometers to Santiago.

The influx in the number of pilgrims has been an adjustment, but has been fun as well, as it has given us an opportunity to meet a lot of new people. I met this wonderful Irish woman, and a college professor from Chicago.

As I find myself on the edge of arriving in Santiago, I find myself excited to almost be there, as well as drawn back to a conversation I had with another pilgrim, the conversation had to do with how in life one of the scariest things can be to get what you want, because the moment we get what we want, we may suddenly realize, what is there next. So as I am about to get the thing I want, I am also a bit reluctant to walk the final 40 kilometers to Santiago, because when I arrive then I must face the question, Now what?

The easy answer is to go home and enjoy sharing my stories and pictures with everyone, but in truth it is a much bigger question. Maybe the answer awaits me in Santiago.

After we reach Santiago we are continuing onto the coastal town of Finisterre, which during medieval times was believed, as it is the western most point along the Camino, to be the end of the world. Pilgrims would travel beyond Santiago to this town and find themselves faced with the rolling tides of the ocean. So we too will finish our journey by walking there.

One more week of walking awaits me and I am as excited as ever to do it. I hope and trust that the next week will hold many adventures, stories, and life lessons, which I will enjoy sharing with you all. My hope is that I will get to post again when I have arrive in Santiago.

Peace,
Amanda

P.S.
Once again thanks for all the comments, they are really fun to read.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

The most beautiful region

Hi all,

Well, the last few days have been particularly difficult for multiple reasons. It´s funny how when things go wrong they tend to all want to go wrong at the same time. I have not been feeling very good, then my bank card decided to stop working, and then to top it all off the phone card I bought refused to work, then when it worked the phone didn´t want to work, so my poor mother probably thinks she was subject to a sudden spree of prank calls, but no mom in fact it was your daughter trying to make contact. I am doing my best to find the humor in the fact that after spending almost thirty odd some days mostly electronically disconnected, the one time I need it to work it decides to go on strike.

Since I last wrote we have moved beyond the meseta and are back in the mountains. We reached the highest elevation point of our trip the day before yesterday, which is marked by a large towering poll with a steel cross atop it. It is called the Cruz de ferro and there is a tradition that pilgrims carry a rock or something with them to leave at the cross. There are a wide variety of things that adorne the cross and speckle the mound of rocks at its base. Many of the rocks have messages on them, and on the cross many a poem or note has been posted. I did not bring a rock, but I thought of leaving my shoes, but then I thought that might be cutting of my nose to spite my face, so instead, I left two poems. One was by Mary Oliver and the other was by anonymous. It was a very deep experience to see all the things that people have left and realize that people have been leaving things for hundreds of years, and now I am a part of that.

We have entered what I truely believe is the most beautiful part of our journey, today we walked up and over a large mountain, and we started early enough that we got to sit at the top and see as the early morning sun peak over the mountain range . The best part was there was a sign we passed as we started up the mountian and I asked my friend what it said and she laughed and told me she would tell me when we got to the top, well when we got to the top, I asked again and she said that it said, ¨extremely difficult Camino only for experienced walkers¨, yeah ok probably good she told me at the top.

Off to bed here is the Mary Oliver Poem I left at the cross: (Thanks Katie!)

One day you finally knew
what you had to do, and began,
though the voices around you
kept shouting
their bad advice—
though the whole housebegan to tremble
and you felt the old tug
at your ankles.
"Mend my life!"
each voice cried.
But you didn't stop.
You knew what you had to do,though the wind pried
with its stiff finger
sat the very foundations,
though their melancholy
was terrible.
It was already late
enough, and a wild night,
and the road full of fallen
branches and stones.
But little by little,
as you left their voices behind,
the stars began to burn
through the sheets of clouds,
and there was a new voice
which you slowly
recognized as your own,
that kept you company
as you strode deeper and deeper
into the world,
determined to do
the only thing you could do
—determined to save
the only life you could save.

Good Wishes,

Amanda

Friday, July 4, 2008

HAPPY FOURTH of July By THE WAY!!!!!!!


AManda
Ola,

We have made it through Leon and are in Astorga now. Leon was wonderful, the cathedral beautiful as they all seem to be in their own right. Having arrived early in the day we were able to walk around a good portion of the city. Seeing a lot of great architecture. Later in the day afte siesta we went with these two German guys that we have befriended to see the inside of the cathedral.

The next day (yesterday) we set off for our next destination, taking a wrong turn and ending up in a city we had not intended to visit, all worked out in the end though, we found a place to stay and got back on track today.

As we left Leon yesterday, we left behind our German friends that we had been travelling with for the last week or so. After we left them and had set out walking I realized that they were the last of the group of pilgrims that were still with us from when we had began.

You see the way the camino works is that you walk along with a group of pilgrims for a bit staying with them in the same albergues until eventually some people move ahead at a faster pace and others fall behind going at their own slower pace, everyone taking it at their own pace. Some time you will see these pilgrims again and sometimes you won´t. As we said goodbye to the Germans, I  found myself reflecting on all the people that have come and gone from my life as I have travelled this road, some entering my life for no more then an evening and other being apart of it for weeks, and even others like my friend I am travelling with and you all back home the entire thing. I thought about how that is similar in everyday life, where some people enter your life as briefly as to pour you a cup of coffee and others are there for weeks,months, and years, while other like parents are there for the better part of the journey. I thought about all the teachers, coaches, friends and other people that have come and gone from my life, and those friends who would be my age now, my uncle and grandparents, who were a part of my life what seems like so briefly, and left it what seems like so quickly.

I bean to ask myself why it is that I feel so blessed and changed by the people that I am meeting on this journey, while in my day to day life I tend to more often then not feel hindered. That is not to say I am not thankful everyday for the many people that are a part of my life but I think it is easy to take those aroud you for granted. I guess the answer that I came to was that it hasto do with mindfulness. On a journey like this it is easy to be more aware about trying to honor those people that come and go from your life, because in most cases they are not their long enough for you to take their presence forgranted.

Whether you are the one on the journey, or you, like the people of Spain are for the pilgrims, are the one ushering someone along on their journey, both people are privlliged to the experience of changeing the other persons life, both you and the other person, have something to offer, imagine if the next time you went to complete a simple errand like get a cup of coffee, and you treated the experience like it held at its core the potential to set your life in a whole new direction. Something amazing might happen hmmmmm....


content pilgrim,

Amanda

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Mansilla De Las Mulas

Hi,

Many miles have been travelled since my last post. We have made it through Burgos, seeing the cathedral there was wonderful. The cathedral which my words will fail to do justice, is this profoundly beautiful piece in the center of the city. When you stand in front of it it stands this vastly white structure whose architecture is so delicate. It reminds me of a giant piece of wax that was sculpted into this magnificent cathedral. The turrets on the top look of shaved wax,curled into delicate positions, and positioned high above on the cathedral are these wonderful statues of various figures. It was a very moving sight. I can´t post pictures right now but if you get a chance google the cathedral of Burgos.

The last three days have been very difficult and trying. We have been walking 18 to 20 miles per day, which has been quite a bit. It has been pretty flat but it has been very hot and the stretch we have been walking is full of long distances with no shade, and oh yeah no sign of life, except for miles and miles of wheat.

My legs and feet have been showing the miles, with plenty of blisters reminding me as I walk the miles I have already travelled. Everyday though I find myself more then willing to begin walking.

We are in Mansilla De Las Mulas and will be in Leon by the end of tomorrow, which when I look at the map reminds me how close we are getting to our destination. I am excited and a bit reluctant, like all things in life to move forwards means to find yourself in new experiences but it also means letting the old ones go, to become little more then memories.


With worn out feet,

Amanda

P.S. Thanks for the comments, and good wishes for Katie and Greg who I think are off right now with the high school youth group in Chicago doing fun things. Hope all is going well for them.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Almost to Burgos 2

Ola again,

I decided to post twice this evening because I have so much to share.

Yesterday while sitting under a tree outside the church where St. Dominique, was born and baptized, we were approached by this tall, red-headed Irish fellow. We had seen him where we had stayed the night before, but had not been introduced. Well we started talking and it turns out that he is a physics professor from the university of Scranton in Penn. WHich was very exciting for my friend because she is a physics major. Well, we sat and chatted for a while and before I knew it we were discussing why humans should be kind, as in where the ¨should¨ comes from, this led down the path to a very philosophical conversation. He walked with us for most of the rest of the day and we talked about literature, physics, love, what and why certain things are considered masculine or feminine. It was this amazing conversation, and the best part was it was not him lecturing us, it was us sharing information and thoughts both directions. It was a really powerful conversation, the stuff we talked about left my mind realing for most of the evening.

It is those moments, days, and hours that are making every step one of the most fulfilling experiences, I have ever had.

Night,

Amanda

Almost to Burgos

Buenas Noches!

Well the last couple of days have once again proved to be full of wonderful and inspiring experiences. We have travelled from Azofra to Toentos, and I must confess are staying in a small town of which I don´t remember the name at this time. We are almost to Burgos, which is a pretty significant mark as far as distance is concerned for our journey.

Since I last wrote we have been staying with nuns and monks, and it has been an interesting endeavor. All have been very hospitable and welcoming.

In regards to my time with the nuns and the monks there has been something that has been going trough my mind quite often the last couple of days as I have been walking. The night that we stayed with the nuns in Vianna (the same night I played soccer) we were staying there along with the French people we have befriended and some Spainards. As we sat after dinner, my friend said something to me, she said that half way through dinner she had realized that as the nuns were commenting on my not being able to speak spainish, that she was the only person in the room with whom I could communicate. This was very true as she speaks Spainish and the language I speak was not useful at all in context of the situation.

The next day while walking I was reflecting on this and I have had a few thoughts. As I sat there at the table, and as I encounter people on a day to day bases, I am placed in the position of the outsider, I am the other. It is a vey humbling position I have come to see, for two reasons. One because I am American and I think that as a result I tend to have even when I try not to, subconciously, a perspective of the world that centers me and my native language at the center, as the privillaged positition. It is humbling secondly, because I am a pretty independent person and having to rely on someone else for as simple a task as communicating is a big thing. The thing though is that as much as it is humbling and as much as I am placed on the outside, I have come to realize that the people I am meeting along this road, have a way of making my positon as other, my being an outsider not something that separates, it is this odd inclusive outsiderness. As though I at times am standing on the outside of the house looking in the window, and then suddenly the door swings wide open and I am welcomed in. We all do not speak the same language or have the same reasons for walking, or even have the same backgrounds. We are separated by generations, cultures and nationalities, yet, we find ways to communicate, by being open, and listening.

So I find myself wondering if there was a way to take this attitude if you can call it that and envoke it in a greater more significant way, could things in the world change. I mean wonder if we were to all sit down at the next nuns table and discuss some of the tough deeper issues aside from where we are from and why we are walking, but if we talked about politics,and religion, and the state of the world, and if we despite all our barriers, really listened and tried to communicate, taking no privlliged position, maybe we could have a meaningful conversation, debate if you want to call it that, that would lead to a meaningful outcome. I wonder and continue to wonder, my mind wanders back to this thought as I walk, a doubt there is any straigh forward answer. That is one big thing I have learned so far, is that the road that appears to lead straight to the destination, carries with it many more curves and turns then one would ever imagine.

With Peace,
Amanda

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Hi,

Since I last wrote I have travelled through many towns and had lots of great experiences. From Estella I went to to Los Arcos, from there to Viana then to Navarrette and now to Afroza.

Where to begin... Well grape vines are as numerous along the Spanish countryside as the product they yield is on the dinner table. Every dinner comes with aa bottle of wine, from the region that you are dining in. So far we have gone through one region and are into our second, we went through the Navarra region and now are in the Rojia region. As we were leaving Estella on our fifth day of walking we encountered an arduous if not long uphill climb, as we were walking we came upon the Bodega Irache, a winery that has been bottling world famous wine since 1891. Now I am sure you are saying what is the big deal about coming across a winery in Spain. The big deal though you see is that this winery had a free wine spicket for pelegrinos (pilgrims), free wine is sure to make any uphill climb a bit easier. Well, needless to say 9:00 am is much to early for wine so we did what any good pilgrims would do not wanting to offend anyone but not taking what was offered to us, we dumped our water bottles and filled them up with wine to drink with our lunch. The hill seemed a much smaller climb after that.

The next evening we had the opportunity to stay in a church, and be hosted by nuns it was a wonderful experience, as we were there with a group of French people the we have befriended. Before dinner my friend and I wnet outside to the town square and found some kids playing soccer, these kids could not have been much older then 8. My friend asked in Spanish if we could play, they had fun for a bit letting us be goalkeepers and shooting the ball at us . Then they wanted to play real soccer. My friend got picked first for one team then the kids went on picking players and then it came down to me. You know your soccer carrier in Spain is doomed when an eight-year old looks you over, measures you for height against him, and tells his mate that he doesn´t want you. Yeah, I got sized up by a kid and nobody wanted me on there team, especially when my friend told them I didn´t speak Spanish. In the end I got on a team, showed those eight year olds a thing or to about soccer, and we all had a great time.

Well I have plenty more to say but it will have to wait the clock is running out, maybe I will post again later. Hope this finds everyone well.

Amanda

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

The Beauty of Spain

You know how there is that song, I think it is America the Beautiful, and it talks about purple mountains majesty, well America may have the purple mountain thing going on, but Spain has a beauty all its own. As I walk it is so beautiful to look out and see the hillsides covered with wheat a toasted yellow color, intermingled with poppies, that are this deep orange-red. Since I wrote last I have walked from Cizur Manor to Puenta la Renia and then today I ended in Estella. I think that growing up my whole life in the Pacific Northwest has made me prone to bringing the rain with me when I go sunny places :) . The last couple of days have been rainy, with today being one of the first with significant sun.

All the walking has begun to get tiring, but I am still enjoying my time. We have joined in the Spanish tradition of taking a siesta in the afternoons after we arrive at the refugio. The refugios have so far been very nice. Tonight was the first time we were in one with a kitchen so we made dinner. Just pasta and sauce.

Well I am pretty tired so not much else to say, but I will try to have something more interesting to write about next time.

Side Note: I know that my posts have had many spelling errors and typing mistakes, sorry if it makes it difficult to read, the Internet here is timed, so I am always typing in a hurry, and I tend to make quite a few mistakes.

Also, in case you were wondering I am not travelling alone, I am with a friend Kelly, so if I start referring to ¨we¨ that is why.

tired pilgrim,

Amanda

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Roncevalles-Cizur Manor

Good Evening,

Today ends the third day of walking. I walked from Roncesvalles to Zubri and thru to Laresona yesterday. Sleeping in Laresona and leaving at 6 am this morning. Today I walked through Pamploma and unfortunately was not able to participate in the running of the bulls (don´t worry mom!) because the running of the bulls is not until July 7th. The city was wonderful, the cathedral was this huge stone building that looks much like a fortress, which apparently has to do with the fact that when it was built in the 18th cent. it was designed to defend against enemies. I think I could live in Pamploma if I knew Spanish, it was a very lively, and relatively up to date city. As well the people there are so nice, always trying to help direct us along our way, and stopping us to ask where we are from and why we are walking the Camino.

The walking has been wonderful, although my feet are starting to show the results of walking 15 plus miles a day. I have quite a few blisters, but nothing that is causing me to much trouble. Everyday I am still enjoying the walking. It is relatively quite while you walk, occasionally coming across fellow pilgrims, greeting them and going on your way. There is quite a few pilgrims that I have befriended and have had the chance of having some very interesting conversations with. From politics, to sailing, to soccer, to philosophy, to what is most important in life. It has been a great experience so far. I have learned so much in so little time.

Everyday there are moments when the walking gets tiring, but every evening when I am sitting talking with fellow pilgrims I am reminded why I came to do this, and why this is worth the little bit of being tired. Everyday I find myself in aw of the fact that I am here walking to Santiago, and everyday I get excited, because I am a little bit closer.

When you pass people on the road it is tradition to say ¨Bueno Camino¨, so I say to you until next time, ¨Bueno Camino¨, have a good journey.

Amanda

Friday, June 13, 2008

Roncevalles

Ola,

Well, I am in Roncevalles after two planes and a cancelled train, one night in the Paris train station, I finally arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port last night. I began walking at 8:00 am and arrived at 3:00. I hiked 15 miles, I can't believe it. It was mostly up hill, and when I say mostly I mean mostly. It rained and there was mud up to my ankles, but it was still great. I am astounded I made it 15 miles. I feel like I can do the rest now, with 15 miles done. I keep having to remind myself it is not about the end it is about the journey. One step at a time (Thanks Greg!). So far I have met a lot of wonderful people, I met a guy from Lithuania and we conversed in Russian, a hedge fund manager from South Africa, a woman from London, a teacher from Holland and a bunch of other people from France and Germany. Everyone has been great about trying to communicate despite the language barriers. It has been fun to see how something that is not nationally associated can allow people to step beyond boundaries and be welcoming and willing to help people they don´t know. I am in complete aw that this is all really happening, I keep having to remind myself I am really in France and Spain and I really am on my way to walking 500 miles. Tonight I am staying at a monastery Roncevalles, it is beautiful, it is just as it was during medieval times. One of the things I have found most meaningful so far is that as I walk the path I am stepping on the places, I am staying, places that thousands of pilgrims have passed through before. This is my own journey and it is also that of the many as well. I don´t think it is possible to put into words what that feels like. Well I am off but until later, Peace.

Amanda

P.S. Thanks for all the comments, they are great to read after a long day of walking.

Monday, June 9, 2008

As I set out...

Hi all,

 I am 16 hours and 35 minutes away from boarding a plane to begin my adventure across Spain. For all who don't know, I am venturing off to spend 40 days walking 500 miles across Spain. The route that I will be walking is known as the Camino de Santiago, or Road to Santiago. It is a Medieval pilgrimage route that is dedicated to St. James. His relics are believed to be entombed in the cathedral of St. James in Santiago de Compostela.

There are many stories regarding the history of the road and the cathedral. A couple that I have come across most often in my research have been: that after James died his body was placed in a boat which floated over to the coast of Spain. Upon recognizing who he was, he was buried in the hills of Santiago. A shrine was resurrected for him, and as word spread people began to travel from a far to honor him and touch his relics, as there were healing properties associated to them. Another story that is attached to this one is that while the Spainiards were trying to push the Moors out of Spain, St. James rose up riding on a white horse and helped to defeat the Moors. In light of this the shrine that had been erected for him, was built into the magnificent cathedral that stands in Santiago today.

The route that I will be walking that will eventually bring me to the Cathedral of St. James, has been walked by fellow pilgrims for centuries. Medieval pilgrims walked it for a number of reasons. For some it was used as a route to export goods, for others during the time of indulgences in the Catholic church it was a method of earning forgiveness. At present individuals from around the World, with various backgrounds walk it for a variety of reasons. Some for religious purposes, others just for the experience and beauty of the walk. 

In order to do the walk though and be able to take advantage of using what are called refugious, or hostels along the way, one is required to declare themselves a pilgrim. This is done by registering with the pilgrims association in Spain. Despite the various reasons that one chooses to walk the road, everyone is united through their position as a pilgrim.  

Well, that is the general gist of the history and information about the road. If you want to learn more feel free to tour the sites I have posted on the blog, they are all very informative and interesting.

The last couple of days, as I have been finishing up with school and getting ready to leave, I have had to stop and really think for brief moments about the fact that I really am going to be getting on a plane to Spain. I am still at this moment amazed that it is really happening, that I am really getting to go. I suppose that is how these sorts of things work, you get so caught up in the planning and organizing, and worrying that it might not happen, that the moment it is in front of you, it seems amazing. 

Well that is all for now, but if you feel like following me as I traverse Spain, feel free to check the blog. My hope, fingers-crossed is that I will be able to post every few days or so. 

With excitement and trepidation,

 Amanda